Need tunes in your rent-a-wreck?

Its the same story the world over. You've arrived, you have the car and on the way to the hotel, you poke around the radio stations, hoping to find something vaguely to your taste.

Luckily, we have a pretty good choice to pick from here. Talk radio (in many languages) to classical to trashy pop to pirate dance radio - take your FM pick!

This list isn't definitive but hopefully there will be something to your liking before you can get to a CD shop!

National

• 5FM. Cape Town, 89.0; Johannesburg, 98.0; Durban, 89.9; 5fm frequency finder. Hails from our national broadcaster and is broadcast countrywide. Currently undergoing what would appear to be a minor demographic change, 5FM caters predominantly for the younger crowd playing anything from pop, to hip-hop to dance (Sat evening's Saturday Surgery is good) to rock.


• RSG: 100-106 (another from the SABC). More suitable for the daring Dutch tourist, this station is purely Afrikaans. With a mixture of talk radio, rock, classical and some boeremusiek, it caters for the contemporary Afrikaans speaking set.

Gauteng - Johannesburg/Pretoria and surrounds

• 94.7 Highveld. Can also be streamed across the net (not so easy to do in a car though). Highveld caters for a varied crowd and is listened to in offices all over Gauteng. Broadcast in English, music is mostly contemporary pop.


• 94.2 Jacaranda. Also available online, Jacaranda is also changing it's demographics. It's now like the Afrikaans/English cousin of Highveld, although the two companies are not connected. Music leans from contemporary 'adult' pop to hits of yesteryear.


• 95.9 Kaya. Also available online. Playing a lot of jazz and contemporary South African music, Kaya caters for a predominantly black African market. Listened to in offices all over Gauteng.

Cape Town

• 94.5 KFM. Similar in concept to Jacaranda with the English/Afrikaans programming with its mix of 'adult contemporary' music.

Durban

• East Cost Radio. Based in Durban. Programming aimed at younger ages with its contemporary pop music.

Staying in to watch the box?

South Africa has four terrestrial television channels. SABC (the South African Broadcasting Corporation) has the cunningly named SABC 1, SABC 2 and SABC 3. The channels cater for the different demographics we have.

SABC 1 is aimed largely at the African language population, but some programming includes some English. SABC 2 is aimed largely at the English and Afrikaans speaking populations. SABC 3 is English only for whoever will watch. SABC is the national broadcaster and includes a myriad of radio stations. However, as with all government mouthpieces, impartiality can be somewhat skewed at times. SABC offers local and imported programs, sports and news. Altogether, not a bad offering really as long as you can negotiate the rash of soapies (soap opera's).

The fourth terrestrial channel is Cape Town based ETV. ETV is broadcast predominantly in English and is a popular alternative channel to the SABC stable. Again, a good mixture local and international programs with its own fair share of melodramatic soaps.

Satellite is provided by Multichoice. With over 50 channels, they provide typical satellite offerings: loads of news and sports, repeated movies and popular sitcom stuff. MTV and VH1, cartoons and several BBC choices make Multichoice popular with hotels and the well heeled set - but just be prepared to watch the same stuff over and over, and over...

Its a matter of Pride

Whilst a bit late to promote for 2006, it's worth noting that Cape Town has its Pride march and party the last weekend of February. Johannesburg has its later on in the year, normally in September.

They are somewhat smaller events than the marches and parties of the first world, but no less significant to the local community. The format follows a pretty much international pride-like format: a float/party march round the city followed by parties, fun events and clubbing. Normal people watch out - pride is the day one your conservative sensibilities might get an eyeful!

Wine, olives and arty stuff

South Africa is famous for wine and olives. You may well agree with the wine part based on your supermarket knowledge back home, but olives?

From the Mediterranean climate of the Western Cape to the semi-desert Northern Cape, olive and grapes are immensely important to the region, providing employment, economic stability and tourism opportunities.

The various Wine Routes (Stellenbosch, Durbanville, Constantia and Route 62 (the longest wine route in the world), Paarl, Wellington, Franschhoek and Worcester are extremely popular and boast wine tasting, exquisite meals, concerts, sightseeing and wine related shopping galore.

In addition to the wine stuff, Spier Estate (Stellenbosch wine route) has an arts season that is very popular. Check online for details.

South Africa has wild olive trees that are related to the more commonly known European table kind. This was noticed way back when and some enterprising person decided to cultivate the edible table variety. The result: world class olive groves and award winning olive oils and products.

Whilst 'olive routes' don't exist as such, Morgenster Estate in Somerset West, Kloovenburg and Hillcrest are places to consider visiting.

Not all estates are open to the general public and bookings may need to be done in advance, so check beforehand.

Is Southern Africa gay friendly?

To generalise grossly, Africa is messed up. Historically, the place has been over-run by so many of everyone else that identity is a luxury. You get native French and Portuguese speakers on this continent - people that have never set foot in Paris or Lisbon.

So when 'independence' from the evil overlords was all the rage in the swinging 60's, Africa was plunged into an era of trendy dictatorships (South Africa was no exception). While the Europeans swanned around in their African gold and diamonds, the continent began a journey of decay. Largely forgotten by everyone except the Chinese and Russians, the style of leadership was more red left than blue right. As a result, totalitarian practice such as the sweeping banning of homosexuality, gambling, miniskirts and so on were commonplace. You had to call everyone comrade and brother (in the literal sense) to fit it. Dark glasses with thick black plastic dictator style frames and cream safari suits ruled.

Then democracy becomes the buzz word and corrupt oppressive regimes are overthrown (South Africa was no exception) and replaced by more 'touchy feeley', people centric, all embracing and less corrupt (in the name of transparency) governments. Much of this coincided with the opening up of South Africa as a regional and global trade partner, the fall of the Russian Empire and the sneaky embracing all things capitalist by the Chinese. A rash of voting and people power brought new rules and ideals to an area traditionally devoid of liberal thinking.

The end result? Africa still has many hang ups with many things - homosexuality is one of them - and we are trying our hardest to shake off the past and embrace the future. South Africa has one of the most 'water-tight' democracies in the world - having been modeled on the positives of everywhere else.

But people in countries everywhere have hang-ups over homosexuality, you just need to know where it's technically illegal and where it's 'embraced' or 'allowed'.

South Africa is on the track to legal recognition of same-sex partnerships thanks to the constitutional court. The larger cities are more openly accepting and some of the smaller rural communities are surprisingly accepting (come on, what else is there to do in the middle of nowhere?). However, remember that South Africans are religious, and somewhat conservative. We also have a large Muslim population and we all know how sensitive their ideals can be at times.

Homosexuality is illegal just about everywhere else in Southern Africa although as in any country where things are deemed illegal, you will find pockets of resistance or tolerance. Just don't expect much leniency or sympathy from the legal system. This means that gay bars, restaurants, saunas, shops and sex shops will be all but non-existent but if two 'friends' want to share a tent in a luxury lodge, so be it. Seekers Travel in South Africa are gay friendly (see article)and will be a good start with solid advice on your trip across the continent.

Places to Eat

As there is an article on what to expect foodwise in South Africa, perhaps it might be appropriate to list some restaurants by city. This list will be a work in progress. Feel free to leave replies to this post with restaurant names, location, food type/style and comments on the place. Don't worry if you don't have contact details - if they can be found, they'll be added.

Meanwhile, here are a couple of places that might be worth considering

Johannesburg

• Smith & Wollensky in Sandton City and Eastgate Mall for that classy gentleman's club approach to carnivorous eating


• Col Cacchio in Bryanston for all things pizza


• Primi Piatti at Rosebank Mall or Rivonia Square for an 'international' menu for young trendy things


• JB Rivers in Hyde Park or JB's Corner in Melville Arch. International menu for not so young any more trendy things with young dependents


• Marcel's in Hyde Park (by the movies) for the smoothest tastiest frozen yoghurt


• Moyo at Zoo Lake, Market Theatre and Melrose Arch for African/International experience


• Europa in Parkhurst on 6th. Be seen

Cape Town

• Ons Huisie in Blouberg for traditional seafood based food


• Albert's in Long Street, Gardens for South African and International fare


• Vida e Caffe is a popular haunt for caffeine fixes. Gardens, Willowbridge, City


• Citta boats the best coffee. Also own brand ice-cream. Willowbridge (Tyger Valley)
  

Stellenbosch

• Moyo at Spier is an experience not to be missed. African/international menu and all you can eat buffet

Fruits de la mer

After a trip to Cape Town's very cool Two Ocean's Aquarium, what could be better than a lovely seafood platter at one of the many nearby restaurants?

One thing that would be better is if you could first take the time to have a look at this database of marine species that are endangered. Thanks to the Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative for this information. All species in the red column are protected and not supposed to be commercially fished. Those in the orange column are borderline and those in the green... well, they're probably looking forward to moving to the orange column soon.

Many restaurants either do not know they are serving endangered species or are willingly breaking the law for financial gain. Your help with understanding this problem and pointing out the error of the restauranter's ways will be much appreciated by all marine life, including those at the aquarium.

We all need to act responsibly to ensure a planet we can pass on to the future.

Call of the wild

The bush is in our blood. Nothing beats waking up before dawn in the middle of nowhere and listening to nature all around you while watching the sun rise across the plain.

There are over 20 National Parks and hundreds of private game reserves throughout South Africa. A trip to anywhere in Africa has to include a trip to the bush and most definitely, try and stay in the bush a night or two.

The animals tend to be more active early morning and evening - the cooler parts of the day - so they are generally the best times to go game-viewing. Many park will allow you to drive yourselves round. Much as you would be unlikely to jump into the water next to a great white shark, please remember to NOT get out of your car in a game park or reserve. Wild animals have this uncanny ability to pounce on loose people.

Bush camps and lodges vary from the tented to the luxury. Have a look around the SA National Parks website for further information.

Nice for day visits:

• Table Mountain National Park. From Table Mountain itself to Cape Point - hikes, great photo ops and stunning scenery. Dassies, birds and fynbos (Cape flora)


• West Coast National Park. About 1 hour drive up the West Coast from Cape Town near Langebaan and its lagoon. Famous for Eve's footprint. Ostriches, tortoises, fynbos, birds and different species of buck.


• Pilanesberg National Park. Close to Sun City and a two hour drive from Johannesburg and Pretoria. Features the big 5 and a casino nearby. What other park can boast that?

If venturing to Zambia, lodges in the North and South Luangwa valley are a must. They tend to be a bit pricey (all costs in US Dollars for tourists) but they are worth it. A safari in Zambia is unscripted and wild. Animals tend not to pose by the track as they do in East Africa. If you can find a lodge that offers a walking safari, try it. Walking is the most informative way to explore the bush and see wildlife. Kafue National Park is in the middle of the country and a bit more off the beaten track. More acccessible is the park at Livingstone - and most visitors to Zambia head for the Victoria Falls.

Botswana is famous for it's Okavango Delta and being a second home to many South Africans. Aside from the allegedly great working conditions and it's swamp and wildlife, most people from Botswana seem to spend all their free time in Gauteng (being the nearest centre with shops).

Namibia. One of Germany's ex outposts, the place is a desert experience. Big on diamonds, wildlife and desert (the Namib), Namibia is rarely big on the travel itinerary unless you're in the know. Etosha National Park is the best known of the many parks. The one downside is that Namibia's political system is more akin to the old style African dictator and accompanying old fashioned ideaologies. The regime is definately not friendly to gay people and as a result, if you're politically inclined to support more democratic and welcoming countries, Namibia wouldn't be your first port of call.

Naked fun anyone?

South Africa is not as liberal as many other places in the world when it comes to baring all in front of complete strangers. As a species, we've grown accustomed to perfecting the image nature bestowed us with anything gorgeous made in Italy. In addition, our fairly religious background dictates levels of decency and conservative values making for a pretty prohibitive environment to bare all.

The good news is that especially given our history of discrimination, our society is now liberal (at least on the face of it and in a court of law) so theoretically, one could argue it's unconstitutional to not be allowed to walk naked in public when one wants. The ins and outs of liberalism versus conservatism in any society is a whole other story.

At least our weather is good enough (as long as it's not too windy) to help keep one's bits a healthy 'flattering' size - just don't venture anywhere near the water lest you disappoint everyone else on that beach when you re-emerge! Remember: windy = sandblasted skin.

Cape Town: Sandy Bay is the one. Its secluded and popular. The beach is a good 10-15 minute walk from the car park and has none of the handy drink and food stalls of the main beaches - so remember to take your own. There are no public toilets either so remember, everyone knows what you're doing when you wade in waist deep! To get there, drive from town along the coast road towards Clifton and Camps Bay and keep driving till you get to Llandudno (yes, we do have a place with a Welsh name in Africa!). The bushes towards the furthest side of the beach have a maze of tunnels for the boys to 'explore'. Please remember to take all your rubbish with you. Sandy Bay is beautiful but even more so without discarded bottles, cigarette butts and food wrapping stuck into the sand or between rocks.

Durban/Umhlanga: follow Lagoon drive till you get to the car park at the end. The nature trail leads to the beach and lagoon, which is where the nudists are. As with Sandy Bay, not a lot available in amenities and please, remove your rubbish.

Johannesburg: Voelkop is a resort/farm in the Magaliesberg, equidistant from Johannesburg and Pretoria. A men only environment it's a nice day outing with hikes around the farm and a small koppie (hill) for climbing. Voelkop has basic chalets that are available for overnight hire. An entrance fee is charged.

Please remember, that unless private (as with Voelkop) the places mentioned here are unofficial and thus, discretion (if you are going to misbehave) is essential.

Market forces

People love a good scratch around flea markets. It must be something that goes back to our days of hunter/gatherers. Which is just as well, seeing as the traditional market is how a vast majority of Africa's population still shops.

For those more accustomed to more 'user friendly' markets, Cape Town has some excellent choices:

• Greenmarket Square is probably the easiest, central (to the city) one. Good for the obligatory long neck wooden giraffe, batik, bead encrusted doyle glass covers and other such 'traditional african' memorabilia.
• Church Street Antique Market is also in the city centre. Nice for a rummage through yesteryear and if you look carefully, might find some worthwhile stuff.
• Milnerton Flea Market is more of a car-boot affair, so expect the appropriate goods. If you hanker after kitch, this is more than likely where you'll find it.
  

Johannesburg also has it's fair share:

• Rosebank rooftop market is huge and a real morning to afternoon affair where your every need will be catered for. Lots and lots to browse through. Sundays and public holidays only.
• Rosebank Curio Market is open every day for all your african memorabilia needs.
• Michael Mount Organic Market (Bryanston, at the Michael Mount Waldorf School) is good browsing for conscientious adults. There is lots of tasty home produce as well as boutique arts and crafts.
  

African accessibility

The sad fact is that Africa is generally a 'specialist' tourist destination. This is mainly due to its distance from the rest of the world, the cost of travel to and within it, the lack of infrastructure or reliable transport in many areas and oddly, the costs of actually holidaying here.

That isn't to say that Africa is inaccessible. The more 'popular' destinations such as South Africa, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Kenya, Tanzania, Morocco, Egypt etc - will all be fairly cost effective and 'trouble-free' holidays. Venture any deeper into the continent and the visitor may be confronted with cancelled flights, lack of transport, unsuitable accommodation and prices for drinks and 'luxuries' that are possibly as expensive as at home.

To give an example - coming to South Africa for a visit to Cape Town for a few days, then going to the Kruger Park and on to Johannesburg before flying home can all be achieved to schedule, with out any hiccups or unseen costs. Try the same type of itinerary elsewhere and you may not get that connecting flight, or the customs official won't let you through till a bribe is paid or you arrive at the lodge and the chef is missing. That sort of thing. This is not to say that this is the norm - but come on - this is Africa - and this is how it is here. The 'chaos' is part of the fun.

The fact that no-one stresses about these things is testament to 'Africa time'. We don't need psychiatrists here - we worry about nothing! Coming to Africa is an adventure and most people fall in love with the place - chaotic or not. After all - this is where modern humans come from - we're all African at heart.

Save up and book that holiday!