Its a misconception that Africa in uncivilised. Not that luxuries necessarily determine a state of 'civilisation' - but we do have air-conditioning. Perhaps more urban legend, perhaps based on fact, but people have allegedly been put off visiting our magnificent continent due to the perceived lack of luxuries. Think of this another way; coming to Africa and dealing with the climate and insects will prepare you for global warming.
Literally from Cape to Cairo, the continent has its fair share of glitzy four and five star hotel chains, malls, shops and suburbs. From the familiar international brands, Intercontinental, Sheraton, Crowne Plaza to the more localised Southern Suns and Oberoi's, we are perfectly capable of rolling out the red carpet David Livingston style, complete with pith helmets, white linen suits and waxed mustaches!
True, Africa can also be very raw and graphic - markedly different to the clipped plasticness that we all know and love as Wisteria Lane. That, we defiantly are not. Well, not quite as plastic. The raw and real part of this continent's places adds to it's character. A gleaming steel and glass hotel with aircon by Daicon and ten kilometers away, a poor family living in a shack with a mock aircon painted to the wall. The city folk drive around in shiny recently polished SUV's (kids screaming, jammy prints all over the leather upholstery) while the township kids plat with their home-made wire bikes and cars, dreaming of the day. Different people, same aspirations.
Africa is very civilised.
Monday, January 30, 2006
Forget your swimwear?
Fear not. As a nation, we love getting our kit off and parading up and down beaches in swimwear all glistening, ripped and tanned. The boys that like girls tend to go for the surfer style shorts that these days are more trouser-like than anything resembling the good old Village People day of cut off butt-cheek revealing shorts.
The boys that like boys are all Brazilian male in beach style, preferring the speedo brief posing pouch look or the trendier 70's look faux pocket tan and cream shorts (see above reference to Village People).
If you packed in a hurry and left the swimwear behind, we have a myriad of surf and sport shops to choose from that most malls can offer. If you hanker after your Dolce & Gabanna set sitting forlornly on your bed in your loft apartment back home, try FMO on Main Road, Sea Point. Whilst the choice of men 'designer' goods in South Africa will not be the same as back home, FMO at least provides what others don't. Underwear and swimwear that doesn't make you feel like a sack of potatoes (the actual visual image is however, not controllable by undergarments alone)!
In Johannesburg, FMO has an outlet in the Eastgate area and Alphamale are based in Melville.
The boys that like boys are all Brazilian male in beach style, preferring the speedo brief posing pouch look or the trendier 70's look faux pocket tan and cream shorts (see above reference to Village People).
If you packed in a hurry and left the swimwear behind, we have a myriad of surf and sport shops to choose from that most malls can offer. If you hanker after your Dolce & Gabanna set sitting forlornly on your bed in your loft apartment back home, try FMO on Main Road, Sea Point. Whilst the choice of men 'designer' goods in South Africa will not be the same as back home, FMO at least provides what others don't. Underwear and swimwear that doesn't make you feel like a sack of potatoes (the actual visual image is however, not controllable by undergarments alone)!
In Johannesburg, FMO has an outlet in the Eastgate area and Alphamale are based in Melville.
Friday, January 27, 2006
Fire hazard
Fires are a hazard in hot, dry places. Loss of property and life can be the side effect, not to mention the emotional and physical strain on emergency services and the strain on natural resources (such as water) in drought ridden areas.
It is always a good idea to take note of signs in car parks or entrances to public areas that inform you as to what is and isn't allowed. The following is a generalisation:
The Table Mountain fire that caused so much damage and resulted in the death of an elderly British lady was supposed to have been caused by a cigarette flicked out of a car window.
It is always a good idea to take note of signs in car parks or entrances to public areas that inform you as to what is and isn't allowed. The following is a generalisation:
- Only make fires for braai's (a barbecue) in designated areas. They should not be made anywhere else
- Fires are not allowed in National Parks or on beaches - and they definitely are well sign posted and we do prosecute offenders
- In the absence or illegibility of a signpost, just don't
- Do not throw lit cigarettes out of car windows into the road or vegetation on the side of the road. Not only does this decrease public littering, but reduces the threat of fires
- Do not throw glass bottles out of cars for the above reasons
- Take all your litter with you or leave it in the rubbish bins provided. If the bins are full, take it with you
- If at home (or guest house) and you are having a portable braai, note the roofing material of the building you are closest to. If it's thatch, move away
The Table Mountain fire that caused so much damage and resulted in the death of an elderly British lady was supposed to have been caused by a cigarette flicked out of a car window.
Thursday, January 26, 2006
Hit the road, Jack
If you already drive on the left side of the road, you’ll be more than capable of driving in South Africa. If you’re a right side driver, just remember the junctions are different! With our esteemed taxi drivers on the loose, the driving can at times be somewhat frustrating but generally we’re a pretty normal driving population who happen to have an appaling track record for accidents and deaths on the road.
There are differences between driving styles depending on where you are and whom you talk to. Gautengers and Capetonians both accuse each other of not being able to indicate and really, they’re both as bad as each other. Rural drivers are polite to the point of infuriating, causing unnecessary tailbacks of politeness and smiles mingled with the faint smell of baking. Capetonians do tend to drive on your tail and change position suddenly and without much warning. Gautengers just love to drive everywhere as fast as possible, gesticulating madly at anyone who’ll pay attention to them.
On the road
We’re a metric country. Not surprisingly, all signs are metric. Forgetting this could land you in hot water if you use any other form of measuring system.
The general speed limit in urban areas is 60 kph (around 37 mph). You may find urban dual carriageways that allow 70 or 80 kph (around 43 or 49 mph) but these will be clearly sign posted. Freeways (or highways/motorways) allow a top speed of 120 kph (around 75 mph). Rule of thumb, travel at the speed the signs say.
Our traffic cops are partial to issuing fines on anything that vehicles can use. So be warned! Please don’t try and bribe them either – even if they hint unsubtly. Not only is it illegal to bribe, but your encouraging them makes our lives more intolerable once you’ve left. They may well be armed but they won’t shoot you for refusing to pay a bribe!
Like everyone else, we are just as capable of being in the wrong lane, at the wrong time, when its least needed – so please don’t get too irritated on the roads. Road rage is a relatively new phenomenon here and people generally less visibly agitated than elsewhere, but bear in mind we have been known to use real weapons in the odd road rage incident.
One quirk of driving in South Africa for some is the ‘four way stop’. These junctions are clearly marked both by road markings and by ‘stop’ signs. The rule is; first vehicle to come to a screeching halt (on the line marking or as close as physically possible) has right of way. This requires a degree of concentration as you have to simultaneously scope out three potential competitors coming from three different directions, judging their distance, speed and driving skill and aggression.
If driving at night, be on the look out for un-roadworthy vehicles that have poor or no lighting. They are a hazard and should not be on the roads, but are something to be aware of.
One for the road?
Don't drink and drive. The Department of Transport road safety campain Arrive Alive, says it quite succinctly. Their website has a heap of good information - have a look.
The police will invariably pitch a road block on the road your on after you had a couple too many. Spot checks are a nationwide thing and especially prevalent at peak driving times (Easter and Christmas), but this is not a hard and fast rule. The police can breathalise you but can't sample body fluids, unless you're dating a policeman.
We just love our police force, and you'll see them out and about in a variety of colours, liveries and branding. Metro Police, Traffic Police, regular Police - be nice to them all!
Parking
Parking bays are generally clearly marked in urban areas. Yellow or red lines mean you should look for instructions on a pole somewhere. Special bays (disabled, deliver, medic etc) are usually clearly marked by paint or a sign. To park in a disabled bay, you need to display the appropriate ‘permit’ (see your Automobile Association) for details. Roads with no markings are generally fine to park in. Some street parking may be metered.
In Cape Town, parking meter wardens replaced all city ‘centre’ meters. Good for job creation. Look for the person wearing a yellow vest and a ticket machine around their neck. You tell them how long you want to park and they press buttons. No ticket is issued apparently.
All malls have parking usually a mixture of paid and unpaid areas. We’re not big on valet parking, so rather not expect it.
Footing it
Anyone on foot more or less has right of way (both unwritten and written). You will find pedestrians everywhere they shouldn’t be, sometimes doing the silliest things. Watch out for people pushing scrap metal (anything with a resale value) in worn out shopping trolleys. Even better, watch out for people crossing a busy freeway at night in non-reflective clothing. As the law stands, the driver is liable if a pedestrian is injured.
There are ‘walk, don’t walk’ signs but they are sometimes ‘ignored, not ignored’. They do allow pedestrians right of way in front of incoming turning traffic (flashing red, don’t walk).
License
You will need to check whether your current driving license allows you to drive in South Africa, but generally an ‘International Driving License’ is acceptable. Your local Automobile Association should be able to advise. Always ensure you have some form of photo identification with you too.
There are differences between driving styles depending on where you are and whom you talk to. Gautengers and Capetonians both accuse each other of not being able to indicate and really, they’re both as bad as each other. Rural drivers are polite to the point of infuriating, causing unnecessary tailbacks of politeness and smiles mingled with the faint smell of baking. Capetonians do tend to drive on your tail and change position suddenly and without much warning. Gautengers just love to drive everywhere as fast as possible, gesticulating madly at anyone who’ll pay attention to them.
On the road
We’re a metric country. Not surprisingly, all signs are metric. Forgetting this could land you in hot water if you use any other form of measuring system.
The general speed limit in urban areas is 60 kph (around 37 mph). You may find urban dual carriageways that allow 70 or 80 kph (around 43 or 49 mph) but these will be clearly sign posted. Freeways (or highways/motorways) allow a top speed of 120 kph (around 75 mph). Rule of thumb, travel at the speed the signs say.
Our traffic cops are partial to issuing fines on anything that vehicles can use. So be warned! Please don’t try and bribe them either – even if they hint unsubtly. Not only is it illegal to bribe, but your encouraging them makes our lives more intolerable once you’ve left. They may well be armed but they won’t shoot you for refusing to pay a bribe!
Like everyone else, we are just as capable of being in the wrong lane, at the wrong time, when its least needed – so please don’t get too irritated on the roads. Road rage is a relatively new phenomenon here and people generally less visibly agitated than elsewhere, but bear in mind we have been known to use real weapons in the odd road rage incident.
One quirk of driving in South Africa for some is the ‘four way stop’. These junctions are clearly marked both by road markings and by ‘stop’ signs. The rule is; first vehicle to come to a screeching halt (on the line marking or as close as physically possible) has right of way. This requires a degree of concentration as you have to simultaneously scope out three potential competitors coming from three different directions, judging their distance, speed and driving skill and aggression.
If driving at night, be on the look out for un-roadworthy vehicles that have poor or no lighting. They are a hazard and should not be on the roads, but are something to be aware of.
One for the road?
Don't drink and drive. The Department of Transport road safety campain Arrive Alive, says it quite succinctly. Their website has a heap of good information - have a look.
The police will invariably pitch a road block on the road your on after you had a couple too many. Spot checks are a nationwide thing and especially prevalent at peak driving times (Easter and Christmas), but this is not a hard and fast rule. The police can breathalise you but can't sample body fluids, unless you're dating a policeman.
We just love our police force, and you'll see them out and about in a variety of colours, liveries and branding. Metro Police, Traffic Police, regular Police - be nice to them all!
Parking
Parking bays are generally clearly marked in urban areas. Yellow or red lines mean you should look for instructions on a pole somewhere. Special bays (disabled, deliver, medic etc) are usually clearly marked by paint or a sign. To park in a disabled bay, you need to display the appropriate ‘permit’ (see your Automobile Association) for details. Roads with no markings are generally fine to park in. Some street parking may be metered.
In Cape Town, parking meter wardens replaced all city ‘centre’ meters. Good for job creation. Look for the person wearing a yellow vest and a ticket machine around their neck. You tell them how long you want to park and they press buttons. No ticket is issued apparently.
All malls have parking usually a mixture of paid and unpaid areas. We’re not big on valet parking, so rather not expect it.
Footing it
Anyone on foot more or less has right of way (both unwritten and written). You will find pedestrians everywhere they shouldn’t be, sometimes doing the silliest things. Watch out for people pushing scrap metal (anything with a resale value) in worn out shopping trolleys. Even better, watch out for people crossing a busy freeway at night in non-reflective clothing. As the law stands, the driver is liable if a pedestrian is injured.
There are ‘walk, don’t walk’ signs but they are sometimes ‘ignored, not ignored’. They do allow pedestrians right of way in front of incoming turning traffic (flashing red, don’t walk).
License
You will need to check whether your current driving license allows you to drive in South Africa, but generally an ‘International Driving License’ is acceptable. Your local Automobile Association should be able to advise. Always ensure you have some form of photo identification with you too.
Timing can be important
An old tourism slogan used to be 'A World In One Country'. How true. This implies a variety of climates, landscapes and people. Habitat ranges from desert to tropical, rainforest to dry scrub, warm and cold oceans and high altitude to sea level living. The variety of habitats also means a variety of climates. If you come form the northern hemisphere, remember that southern hemisphere seasons are reversed!
In a rather simplistic way, think of Octoberish to Marchish being hot (and wet depending where you are) and the rest of the time being mild to chilly. We do get snow in some places in South Africa and temperatures can go below freezing. The Western Cape has a brisk south-easterly wind in summer which the wind and water sports enthusiasts love.
For up-to-date weather check Weather SA. For wind all over the world, Windguru.
In a rather simplistic way, think of Octoberish to Marchish being hot (and wet depending where you are) and the rest of the time being mild to chilly. We do get snow in some places in South Africa and temperatures can go below freezing. The Western Cape has a brisk south-easterly wind in summer which the wind and water sports enthusiasts love.
For up-to-date weather check Weather SA. For wind all over the world, Windguru.
Wednesday, January 25, 2006
On Your Hike
Note: This article needs your participation. Feel free to add to this if you know of or have been on any cool South African trails or hikes.
Although many urban South Africans love the comfort of fossil fuel transport, many also enjoy the outdoors and nature; hiking or trails are a great way to exercise and see the land up close and personal. Why not see a bit of South Africa on foot and connect with the land? And no need to worry if you're don't like the idea of forsaking your comfy accommodation for a sleeping bag as many trails offer walks that'll keep you occupied and out of trouble for a day or less.
Remember to take suitable clothing, footwear, sunscreen, water, energy food, maps and directions (a gps if you're really into it), guidebooks, binoculars and camera!
Although many urban South Africans love the comfort of fossil fuel transport, many also enjoy the outdoors and nature; hiking or trails are a great way to exercise and see the land up close and personal. Why not see a bit of South Africa on foot and connect with the land? And no need to worry if you're don't like the idea of forsaking your comfy accommodation for a sleeping bag as many trails offer walks that'll keep you occupied and out of trouble for a day or less.
Remember to take suitable clothing, footwear, sunscreen, water, energy food, maps and directions (a gps if you're really into it), guidebooks, binoculars and camera!
- The Hoerikwagga People's Trail is a recent addition to the trails on Table Mountain in Cape Town
- Hartebeespoort, close to Johannesburg and Pretoria offers some stunning views. Varying trails to the top of the ridge or along the river. Check Jacana for details and other options
- A pretty cool three hour walk can be had at the Tswaing Meteorite Crater Trail outside Pretoria. Its an ancient meteorite crater
- Although not really hiking as such, Voelkop is a gay male only naturist resort in Hartebeespoort. Walks around the farm are enjoyable and the short climp to the top of the koppie (hill thingy) offers opportunities for fun in the bushes views over the resort
Monday, January 23, 2006
Using Water
South Africa has a fresh water problem. For that matter, so does the rest of the world, but seeing as you're reading this, the focus will be purely local.
Africa can be a hot place, with a growing population that doesn't have easy access to fresh, clean and safe water. Add to this issues with drought and you get a pretty desperate situation for many.
Those lucky enough to have easy access to water 'on tap' often forget just how lucky they are. Those staying in hotels and guest houses are no exception.
So, keeping water use to a necessary minimum ensures that there is more to go around. Pretty simple in theory. In practice, this means remembering those perky things like not leaving taps running, not flushing the toilet unnecessarily, watering the garden at the right time of day or washing the car a bit less often.
Things for the visitor to bear in mind:
These few, thoughtful gestures will really reduce fresh water use and ensure more goes around for all. It may not seem like your effort contributes much, but it does if we all use water sparingly.
Africa can be a hot place, with a growing population that doesn't have easy access to fresh, clean and safe water. Add to this issues with drought and you get a pretty desperate situation for many.
Those lucky enough to have easy access to water 'on tap' often forget just how lucky they are. Those staying in hotels and guest houses are no exception.
So, keeping water use to a necessary minimum ensures that there is more to go around. Pretty simple in theory. In practice, this means remembering those perky things like not leaving taps running, not flushing the toilet unnecessarily, watering the garden at the right time of day or washing the car a bit less often.
Things for the visitor to bear in mind:
- When brushing teeth or shaving, don't keep the tap running
- Flush the toilet only when necessary
- A short, functional shower generally uses less water than a bath
- Keep laundry to a minimum and reuse bathroom and pool towels as long as possible
- Drive your hire-car without washing it
- If your hotel or guest house is watering the garden during the heat of the day, ask them if its necessary seeing as most water evaporates in the heat of the day
- Splashing and splosing water in the pool is fun, but try and keep it contained in the pool. Filling a pool needs council permission and pools are one of the major strains on our water system
These few, thoughtful gestures will really reduce fresh water use and ensure more goes around for all. It may not seem like your effort contributes much, but it does if we all use water sparingly.
Saturday, January 21, 2006
After Dark
South Africa's gay nightlife is similar, yet different to gay nightlife in other cities with Johannesburg and Cape Town having definite differences.
Perhaps South Africa still suffers from societal acceptance issues, or perhaps society is so integrated that the need for a 'gay ghetto' is not needed? Whichever, there are places that gather for gay men and women, and places that are happy to have anyone. Take your preference.
Starting with Cape Town, which is more popular on the tourist agenda. Bronx, Cruz, Barcode and Sliver are very popular. Being in close proximity, its not unusual to see the same people in different places as many like to flit between the venues. Whether this is to check out the quality of goods on offer at 'place b', or to just have a change of scene and music, who knows? Lipstick Lounge is one for ladies.
Not strictly always for after dark, the saunas on offer are Pumphouse and Hothouse - being favourites for post club chilling.
Unlike Cape Town, Johannesburg has its nightlife spread out all over the place. From the Heartland in the South, to Ramp Diva in the East to Citrus Lounge that changes venue. The venues are bigger, the pace hectic - but you don't feel as squished up against the sweaty torsos as you might in Cape Town - which may or may not appeal to some.
For up to date listings, check out Mambaonline.
Perhaps South Africa still suffers from societal acceptance issues, or perhaps society is so integrated that the need for a 'gay ghetto' is not needed? Whichever, there are places that gather for gay men and women, and places that are happy to have anyone. Take your preference.
Starting with Cape Town, which is more popular on the tourist agenda. Bronx, Cruz, Barcode and Sliver are very popular. Being in close proximity, its not unusual to see the same people in different places as many like to flit between the venues. Whether this is to check out the quality of goods on offer at 'place b', or to just have a change of scene and music, who knows? Lipstick Lounge is one for ladies.
Not strictly always for after dark, the saunas on offer are Pumphouse and Hothouse - being favourites for post club chilling.
Unlike Cape Town, Johannesburg has its nightlife spread out all over the place. From the Heartland in the South, to Ramp Diva in the East to Citrus Lounge that changes venue. The venues are bigger, the pace hectic - but you don't feel as squished up against the sweaty torsos as you might in Cape Town - which may or may not appeal to some.
For up to date listings, check out Mambaonline.
What about food?
Photo taken at Moyo, Spier - Stellenbosch.
Update 2005-01-24: There are a couple of specific places linked here, as well as links to sites you can search for restaurants on. This article is by no means a critique on individual places or cooking styles, more a very general view on what a visitor might expect meal wise (for those who might be concerned enough to bring tinned food along).
South Africa does food pretty well really. Aside from the fact that visitors get pretty good value and quality for money (you need to please not do that money conversion thing so loudly and visibly - it just upsets us locals who earn a pittance) the choice of food is pretty impressive too. Restaurants and cafes that focus on 'globalised' fare are literally in every mall and high street - from burger variations to the obligatory pastas, there is something for almost everyone.
Vegetarians (in all their various guises) are the exception to this rule. Get used to eating a salad (you'll swear that damn salad follows you from restaurant to restaurant) or anything with spinach and feta. You probably also wont be able to get a satisfactory answer if you want to really get the food contents laid open for your inspection (What type of gelatin do you use? Is there vegetable rennet in the cheese?). There are some speciality vegetarian places and Col'Cacchio pizzerias make a good effort.
We are surrounded by ocean and by default, seafood. Price-wise, its pretty good. Not as good as subsidised meals in Las Vegas, but the next best thing. Again, quality and quantity rule. A prawn in England is flea sized when compared to what we call a prawn (you need two hands to hold it). As we haven't really yet mastered the art of completely polluting our national waters, the seafood is safe to eat - but always make sure its fresh!
You'll note that we also do chain-restaurants very well and we're big on franchises here. A News Cafe in Blouberg will be the same quality and standard as a News Cafe in Menlyn. They provide hearty fare at a reasonable rate.
If you're in the Cape, really make an effort to eat at some of the wine estates. They're not as instantly visually gratifying as dining in Camps Bay and surrounds, but the food is generally excellent and you could be forgiven for thinking you were dining in genteel Tuscany.
Supporting the Pink community, Cafe Manhattan is popular and offers a nice bar area for some post dining cruising. You'll find that many of the bars and restaurants in the Waterkant area will be more than happy to have your patronage. Its such a nice, friendly area! Essentially, the food scene is more 'integrated' rather than 'ghettoised'.
Comparing the food scene in Jo'burg and Cape Town is difficult. Both offer a great choice and good quality and somewhat iffy service. Noticeably, Jo'burg gets comatose around 21:00 regardless of which day. Its a bizarre thing, but Johannesburg restaurants don't have that packed till 2am feel that you get in popular restaurants in big cities. You'll be eating and next minute you notice all the customers have disappeared, the chairs are all stacked away and the two remaining staff are smoking by the front door, waiting for you to finish that two litre bottle of mineral water.
If you happen do have fidgety offspring with you, Spur Steak Ranches are a good choice as they thankfully embrace what other restaurants dread. Many of the drive-thru variety burger type chains will have kids entertainment areas too - so mom and dad can calorie restock in relative peace.
Check out Restaurants.co.za or Dining Out for South Africa wide restaurant listings.
Update 2005-01-24: There are a couple of specific places linked here, as well as links to sites you can search for restaurants on. This article is by no means a critique on individual places or cooking styles, more a very general view on what a visitor might expect meal wise (for those who might be concerned enough to bring tinned food along).
South Africa does food pretty well really. Aside from the fact that visitors get pretty good value and quality for money (you need to please not do that money conversion thing so loudly and visibly - it just upsets us locals who earn a pittance) the choice of food is pretty impressive too. Restaurants and cafes that focus on 'globalised' fare are literally in every mall and high street - from burger variations to the obligatory pastas, there is something for almost everyone.
Vegetarians (in all their various guises) are the exception to this rule. Get used to eating a salad (you'll swear that damn salad follows you from restaurant to restaurant) or anything with spinach and feta. You probably also wont be able to get a satisfactory answer if you want to really get the food contents laid open for your inspection (What type of gelatin do you use? Is there vegetable rennet in the cheese?). There are some speciality vegetarian places and Col'Cacchio pizzerias make a good effort.
We are surrounded by ocean and by default, seafood. Price-wise, its pretty good. Not as good as subsidised meals in Las Vegas, but the next best thing. Again, quality and quantity rule. A prawn in England is flea sized when compared to what we call a prawn (you need two hands to hold it). As we haven't really yet mastered the art of completely polluting our national waters, the seafood is safe to eat - but always make sure its fresh!
You'll note that we also do chain-restaurants very well and we're big on franchises here. A News Cafe in Blouberg will be the same quality and standard as a News Cafe in Menlyn. They provide hearty fare at a reasonable rate.
If you're in the Cape, really make an effort to eat at some of the wine estates. They're not as instantly visually gratifying as dining in Camps Bay and surrounds, but the food is generally excellent and you could be forgiven for thinking you were dining in genteel Tuscany.
Supporting the Pink community, Cafe Manhattan is popular and offers a nice bar area for some post dining cruising. You'll find that many of the bars and restaurants in the Waterkant area will be more than happy to have your patronage. Its such a nice, friendly area! Essentially, the food scene is more 'integrated' rather than 'ghettoised'.
Comparing the food scene in Jo'burg and Cape Town is difficult. Both offer a great choice and good quality and somewhat iffy service. Noticeably, Jo'burg gets comatose around 21:00 regardless of which day. Its a bizarre thing, but Johannesburg restaurants don't have that packed till 2am feel that you get in popular restaurants in big cities. You'll be eating and next minute you notice all the customers have disappeared, the chairs are all stacked away and the two remaining staff are smoking by the front door, waiting for you to finish that two litre bottle of mineral water.
If you happen do have fidgety offspring with you, Spur Steak Ranches are a good choice as they thankfully embrace what other restaurants dread. Many of the drive-thru variety burger type chains will have kids entertainment areas too - so mom and dad can calorie restock in relative peace.
Check out Restaurants.co.za or Dining Out for South Africa wide restaurant listings.
Friday, January 20, 2006
Gymming, if You're That Way Inclined
South Africans are an outdoorsey bunch. Well, we have the right climate and enough space. Despite all this, some of us love to gym. Perhaps its an inner desire to not fall foul to the weight issues supposedly plaguing western(ised) countries, or perhaps some of us are just plain old vain. Who knows?
If you feel the urge to drag your gym kit along on your visit to South Africa, you might find the following useful once you've decided which gym camp you fall into.
For exercise.
Some hotels have exercise facilities but are more likely to consist of equipment that could have come from your great aunt Edna's spare room. Your best bet is either a Virgin Active or a Planet fitness. Virgin Active definitely offer visitor passes and some will allegedly allow repeated paid entry based on you knowing a member's name. Its best to contact the gym closest to you for correct details.
Cycling and running are also options. In Cape Town, there are several cycle hire places and an abundance of beaches for shirtless posing jogging; Victoria Road from Bantry Bay to the Clifton beaches being the favourite. The promenade along Sea Point to Mouille Point is great for cruising jogging too. With its views of table mountain, Blouberg is the place - though you'll have to negotiate the perambulating crowds, some prams, street hawkers (anything from fixing your car's aircon to wooden patio furniture) and not to mention the myriad of hot guys in kitesurf gear (we love the neoprene look).
Cycling and road running in Johannesburg are somewhat more adventure sports than regular activities (see post on taxis). Cyclelab may be a viable cycling alternative to risking life and limb on the roads. If you have to jog on the street, its best to go with someone else - just to be one the safe side. Never go jogging with your video camera round your neck, latest Nokia to the ear or diamond encrusted Rolex lopping on your wrist - its asking for trouble in any big city with issues.
For cruising (not the sort done in a 1960's American motor).
Gyms the world over seem to attract men attracted to testosterone, sweat and grunting, regardless of actual sexual orientation. Gyms (and sports) probably unleash some primal hunting and gathering instinct. Because of this, you can try your luck pretty much anywhere there are men in skimpy clothes, a changing room and perhaps a sauna and steam room thrown in. But if you don't have time on your side and you need a better bet...
...Point Virgin Active (at Green Point, Cape Town) attracts the lions share of the gorgeous boys, not all of whom are as interested in fitness and building muscle as you may be. The same is true of Old Ed's and Sandton Virgin Actives in Johannesburg and Groenkoof Virgin Active in Pretoria.
Please remember that other people also use these gyms and facilities, and its arguably uncool to get kicked out of a gym for lewd acts in the showers.
If you feel the urge to drag your gym kit along on your visit to South Africa, you might find the following useful once you've decided which gym camp you fall into.
For exercise.
Some hotels have exercise facilities but are more likely to consist of equipment that could have come from your great aunt Edna's spare room. Your best bet is either a Virgin Active or a Planet fitness. Virgin Active definitely offer visitor passes and some will allegedly allow repeated paid entry based on you knowing a member's name. Its best to contact the gym closest to you for correct details.
Cycling and running are also options. In Cape Town, there are several cycle hire places and an abundance of beaches for shirtless posing jogging; Victoria Road from Bantry Bay to the Clifton beaches being the favourite. The promenade along Sea Point to Mouille Point is great for cruising jogging too. With its views of table mountain, Blouberg is the place - though you'll have to negotiate the perambulating crowds, some prams, street hawkers (anything from fixing your car's aircon to wooden patio furniture) and not to mention the myriad of hot guys in kitesurf gear (we love the neoprene look).
Cycling and road running in Johannesburg are somewhat more adventure sports than regular activities (see post on taxis). Cyclelab may be a viable cycling alternative to risking life and limb on the roads. If you have to jog on the street, its best to go with someone else - just to be one the safe side. Never go jogging with your video camera round your neck, latest Nokia to the ear or diamond encrusted Rolex lopping on your wrist - its asking for trouble in any big city with issues.
For cruising (not the sort done in a 1960's American motor).
Gyms the world over seem to attract men attracted to testosterone, sweat and grunting, regardless of actual sexual orientation. Gyms (and sports) probably unleash some primal hunting and gathering instinct. Because of this, you can try your luck pretty much anywhere there are men in skimpy clothes, a changing room and perhaps a sauna and steam room thrown in. But if you don't have time on your side and you need a better bet...
...Point Virgin Active (at Green Point, Cape Town) attracts the lions share of the gorgeous boys, not all of whom are as interested in fitness and building muscle as you may be. The same is true of Old Ed's and Sandton Virgin Actives in Johannesburg and Groenkoof Virgin Active in Pretoria.
Please remember that other people also use these gyms and facilities, and its arguably uncool to get kicked out of a gym for lewd acts in the showers.
When is a Taxi, a Taxi?
Africa has many exceptions to many rules, and forms of public transport are some of them. For the uninitiated, this could either be your last journey alive or an adventure you'll never forget!
In South Africa, there are two main kinds of taxi. The first is the typical looking family sedan with a few bumps in the fender and an orangey light thingy angled precariously on the roof. These can sometimes be found waiting at major tourist spots and airports, or phone ordered to collect, wait and deliver (by the concierge or yourself). These are metered and regulated by the Government. Although pricey, they should be your first option.
The second is the mass transport taxi, generally a 15 seat 'combi' or mini-bus made by Toyota but now christened 'Rambo'. Take note of the 'Emergency Exit' or 'Nooduitgang' painted on the back window... Millions of South Africans use this cheaper form of convenience transport, but sadly hundreds lose their lives every year doing so. This is generally when these vehicles hit the Freeways (or speed through red lights at a junction). They are somewhat licensed and regulated but remain one of those industries that Government cant quite get to grips with. Cape Town 'taxis' are arguably better than the Jo'burg ones - having more defined routes and generally less aggressive drivers. Jo'burg 'taxi' drivers are a special breed. Resilient to the point of being super-human, they are driving machines that communicate in place-name sign language on a money-making mission. Pack-em high, speed 'em around, do as many trips as possible. Who needs to bungy when you can take a Jo'burg taxi?
For the less adventurous, hotels, airlines and tour operators offer airport shuttles, tours and drop off circular routes.
In South Africa, there are two main kinds of taxi. The first is the typical looking family sedan with a few bumps in the fender and an orangey light thingy angled precariously on the roof. These can sometimes be found waiting at major tourist spots and airports, or phone ordered to collect, wait and deliver (by the concierge or yourself). These are metered and regulated by the Government. Although pricey, they should be your first option.
The second is the mass transport taxi, generally a 15 seat 'combi' or mini-bus made by Toyota but now christened 'Rambo'. Take note of the 'Emergency Exit' or 'Nooduitgang' painted on the back window... Millions of South Africans use this cheaper form of convenience transport, but sadly hundreds lose their lives every year doing so. This is generally when these vehicles hit the Freeways (or speed through red lights at a junction). They are somewhat licensed and regulated but remain one of those industries that Government cant quite get to grips with. Cape Town 'taxis' are arguably better than the Jo'burg ones - having more defined routes and generally less aggressive drivers. Jo'burg 'taxi' drivers are a special breed. Resilient to the point of being super-human, they are driving machines that communicate in place-name sign language on a money-making mission. Pack-em high, speed 'em around, do as many trips as possible. Who needs to bungy when you can take a Jo'burg taxi?
For the less adventurous, hotels, airlines and tour operators offer airport shuttles, tours and drop off circular routes.
We Accept Tips!
One of those things that can strike fear into the heart of a seasoned traveller is the tip conundrum. We love money in South Africa, so feel free to tip - as long as you feel its worth it. Its unlikely that you'll feel pressured into tipping by the person offering the service - unless its an airport porter (they are regulated and very officially visible) or a car-park attendant (but they wont throw themselves under your fast speeding away car to get your attention).
How much to tip? 10% is the unwritten rule. Most restaurants will automatically add a tip to the bill for largeish groups - but this differs from place to place. Whether you add an amount to your credit card slip or leave cash, is up to you. The car-park mafia do perform a service by supposedly looking after your vehicle in a relatively secure car park. There are no stories of car park attendant anti robber heroism, but regardless, they perform some form of service. They are normally happy with 1-2 Rand but by all means, pay more if they've been guarding your rent-a-car all day while you eye up bronzed muscles on the beach.
Should you be doing self-catering, you'll need to visit a supermarket. There, you'll likely find your groceries are packed for you. Its probably more abnormal to tip the packer (if she packed and he scanned, shouldn't you tip both?) so if in doubt, don't. Hairdressers are pretty good here and tips to the hair washer and hair dresser are fine but not expected.
Tour guides and drivers will be happy with a thank-you - but a tip will really make them smile. Taxi drivers - heck, if you arrive alive and in one piece, show your gratitude with 10%!
Menial staff are generally on a low wage, so tips in bars and restaurants and so on can make a difference.
Special events (raves, parties) and night-time parking will generally demand a higher tip - if not a set parking fee (which can be extornionate), so if you felt like driving around to find a cheaper spot, do so - but for the sake of saving a few Rand, its a lot of effort. Dont forget that events in town mean proper secure parking places (the indoor ticketed kind).
How much to tip? 10% is the unwritten rule. Most restaurants will automatically add a tip to the bill for largeish groups - but this differs from place to place. Whether you add an amount to your credit card slip or leave cash, is up to you. The car-park mafia do perform a service by supposedly looking after your vehicle in a relatively secure car park. There are no stories of car park attendant anti robber heroism, but regardless, they perform some form of service. They are normally happy with 1-2 Rand but by all means, pay more if they've been guarding your rent-a-car all day while you eye up bronzed muscles on the beach.
Should you be doing self-catering, you'll need to visit a supermarket. There, you'll likely find your groceries are packed for you. Its probably more abnormal to tip the packer (if she packed and he scanned, shouldn't you tip both?) so if in doubt, don't. Hairdressers are pretty good here and tips to the hair washer and hair dresser are fine but not expected.
Tour guides and drivers will be happy with a thank-you - but a tip will really make them smile. Taxi drivers - heck, if you arrive alive and in one piece, show your gratitude with 10%!
Menial staff are generally on a low wage, so tips in bars and restaurants and so on can make a difference.
Special events (raves, parties) and night-time parking will generally demand a higher tip - if not a set parking fee (which can be extornionate), so if you felt like driving around to find a cheaper spot, do so - but for the sake of saving a few Rand, its a lot of effort. Dont forget that events in town mean proper secure parking places (the indoor ticketed kind).
Say What?
South Africa has eleven official languages. We're by no means the winner in the multiple languages per country competition, but eleven is still a lot.
For the visitor, unless you speak Dutch, English will do. Many people in the more frequently visited tourist spots will converse in English. If you're not a native English speaker, don't worry - many South Africans aren't either.
Much language here owes its roots to something else - so its not uncommon to hear words or phrases of another language mixed up in casual conversation. In fact, many South Africans will flit from language to language without realising it. Added to that, our unique form of English (see previous sentences on language mixing).
Language also depends very much on where you are. Cape Town is pretty much covered by English and Afrikaans (various dialects). Durban is more English. In Johannesburg, business is predominantly done in English but a multitude of languages will be heard off-duty in the suburbs. Pretoria, being the Capital is a mixture of English and Afrikaans - but as its the traditional home of the Afrikaaner heartland, will be pretty non-English outside the centre. Our indigenous African languages are spoken all over the place but are mostly geographically separated as follows: Cape - Xhosa, Durban - Zulu, Gauteng - Sesotho. However, Zulu is fairly universal across the country.
The various provinces will emphasize languages differently. For example, in the Cape its not uncommon to see public notices in three languages - trying to reach the largest audience. The language issue can be contentious here, especially given the past and the various colonising countries.
We have many modern emigrants too, all of whom will converse in their own tongue: Chinese, Indian, Swedish, French, German, various Eastern European will all be heard, sometimes in the most unexpected of places.
For the visitor, unless you speak Dutch, English will do. Many people in the more frequently visited tourist spots will converse in English. If you're not a native English speaker, don't worry - many South Africans aren't either.
Much language here owes its roots to something else - so its not uncommon to hear words or phrases of another language mixed up in casual conversation. In fact, many South Africans will flit from language to language without realising it. Added to that, our unique form of English (see previous sentences on language mixing).
Language also depends very much on where you are. Cape Town is pretty much covered by English and Afrikaans (various dialects). Durban is more English. In Johannesburg, business is predominantly done in English but a multitude of languages will be heard off-duty in the suburbs. Pretoria, being the Capital is a mixture of English and Afrikaans - but as its the traditional home of the Afrikaaner heartland, will be pretty non-English outside the centre. Our indigenous African languages are spoken all over the place but are mostly geographically separated as follows: Cape - Xhosa, Durban - Zulu, Gauteng - Sesotho. However, Zulu is fairly universal across the country.
The various provinces will emphasize languages differently. For example, in the Cape its not uncommon to see public notices in three languages - trying to reach the largest audience. The language issue can be contentious here, especially given the past and the various colonising countries.
We have many modern emigrants too, all of whom will converse in their own tongue: Chinese, Indian, Swedish, French, German, various Eastern European will all be heard, sometimes in the most unexpected of places.
The Post-landing 'Shock'
If you have never visited Cape Town before, you will more than likely have to drive to your holiday accommodation - especially if the kids have gone ahead in the chopper... Driving out of the airport entails driving through an informal settlement. It can be quite unnerving for some, especially if you've never seen anything like it before. There are guided tours to these settlements that can be arranged by your hotel or tour company. There is a very real possibility you could be hijacked if you attempt to venture into one by yourself but there again, you can as easily be hijacked or mugged in New York or London, so its wise to exercise caution wherever you are.
Slums and townships throughout Africa are actually vibrant communities and in many ways are better neighbourhoods than the sterile housing communities that the middle and upper income groups increasingly migrate to. There is a sense of belonging, community and pride despite the physical limitiations of the area.
Cape Town is a real city of contrasts. The visually appalling against the backdrop of the intensely beautiful. The destitute poor living next to the insanely wealthy. We are taking steps to address this in the ways our current government sees fit and they must be applauded for everything they have done so far - but where people are concerned, there is always work to do. Be supportive and not critical - its a huge and daunting task.
Welcome to the Cape of Good Hope!
updated 2006-01-24
Slums and townships throughout Africa are actually vibrant communities and in many ways are better neighbourhoods than the sterile housing communities that the middle and upper income groups increasingly migrate to. There is a sense of belonging, community and pride despite the physical limitiations of the area.
Cape Town is a real city of contrasts. The visually appalling against the backdrop of the intensely beautiful. The destitute poor living next to the insanely wealthy. We are taking steps to address this in the ways our current government sees fit and they must be applauded for everything they have done so far - but where people are concerned, there is always work to do. Be supportive and not critical - its a huge and daunting task.
Welcome to the Cape of Good Hope!
updated 2006-01-24
Malls Are Us
Mall shopping is our unofficial national sport. Hordes of people descend on our many cloned malls on Saturdays with families, distant great great aunts, pushchairs and shopping trolleys . So if you want to keep your sanity, avoid them over weekends. If that's your thing, good luck! In Cape Town, we generally have later weekday opening hours for the larger malls (the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront and Canal Walk). Most shops will be open till 21:00 and is a more genteel experience.
Most major cities will have shops that open 7 days a week come rain or shine. Some places will have half-day closing on Sundays and Public Holidays. The smaller cities/towns/villages will be less inclined to open out of regular hours - so be prepared.
We have beautiful weather in South Africa, yet many malls are indoors and themed. Some newer 'malls' have gone against tradition and embraced the open air and a 'community' experience- notably, Melrose Arch in Johannesburg, Clearwater Mall in Roodepoort, The Design Quarter in Fourways and Willowbridge Mall in Tyger Valley.
If you want to party, generally, alcohol is bought from 'bottle stores'. Most malls will have one. This is where you get 'hard' liquor, crates of beer or wines. Some places in Cape Town and Johannesburg sell alcohol on Sundays but generally this is not the norm - you need to stock up before closing on Saturday. Drinking alcohol in public spaces is legally a 'no-no' - so check the rules and regulations wherever you plan on picnicking or braaiing.
Most major cities will have shops that open 7 days a week come rain or shine. Some places will have half-day closing on Sundays and Public Holidays. The smaller cities/towns/villages will be less inclined to open out of regular hours - so be prepared.
We have beautiful weather in South Africa, yet many malls are indoors and themed. Some newer 'malls' have gone against tradition and embraced the open air and a 'community' experience- notably, Melrose Arch in Johannesburg, Clearwater Mall in Roodepoort, The Design Quarter in Fourways and Willowbridge Mall in Tyger Valley.
If you want to party, generally, alcohol is bought from 'bottle stores'. Most malls will have one. This is where you get 'hard' liquor, crates of beer or wines. Some places in Cape Town and Johannesburg sell alcohol on Sundays but generally this is not the norm - you need to stock up before closing on Saturday. Drinking alcohol in public spaces is legally a 'no-no' - so check the rules and regulations wherever you plan on picnicking or braaiing.
Its a Beach Day!
Cape Town has beautiful beaches, many of them pristine. Some of them... well, who care about pristine when the surroundings and boys are gorgeous?
The popular one with 'the boys' is Clifton Three. Clifton is one of Cape Town's more affluent neighbourhoods and has spectacular views across the ocean, with the looming flanks of Table Mountain rising behind. As far as wind goes, the Clifton beaches are the better choice for avoiding that sand-covered look. There are snack, ice-cream and drinks sales people galore, so you won't die of thirst - and what better way to introduce yourself to some tasty tanning morsel than by buying them an ice cold soda?
Slightly further down from Clifton is Camps Bay - where the beautiful people hang out. The restaurants and coffee places vary from good to excellent - and if you're converting into foreign currency, generally a damn good deal for what you pay for.
The popular one for those that prefer 'hanging free' is Sandy Bay - further down the coast from Clifton and not so good with on-beach refreshments (or bins). You'll definitely need to take sunscreen, drink and food. Please take your rubbish away though and above all, be discreet! You don't want to be giving the family a bad name now, would you? There have been reports of 'incidents' - last one being a lady that was molested/raped - so be vigilant and careful. There are houses overlooking the area, but not in close proximity to the 'nudist beach' so peak times and groups are always good.
For that picture postcard photo of Cape Town and Table Mountain, Blouberg's various beaches are the place to visit. Looking across the city from the top of Table Mountain look right and follow the silver endless beach that curves into the distance. That's Milnerton/Table View/Blouberg/Melkbosstrand and beyond. Any stop along there and you've got that sought-after photo.
The popular one with 'the boys' is Clifton Three. Clifton is one of Cape Town's more affluent neighbourhoods and has spectacular views across the ocean, with the looming flanks of Table Mountain rising behind. As far as wind goes, the Clifton beaches are the better choice for avoiding that sand-covered look. There are snack, ice-cream and drinks sales people galore, so you won't die of thirst - and what better way to introduce yourself to some tasty tanning morsel than by buying them an ice cold soda?
Slightly further down from Clifton is Camps Bay - where the beautiful people hang out. The restaurants and coffee places vary from good to excellent - and if you're converting into foreign currency, generally a damn good deal for what you pay for.
The popular one for those that prefer 'hanging free' is Sandy Bay - further down the coast from Clifton and not so good with on-beach refreshments (or bins). You'll definitely need to take sunscreen, drink and food. Please take your rubbish away though and above all, be discreet! You don't want to be giving the family a bad name now, would you? There have been reports of 'incidents' - last one being a lady that was molested/raped - so be vigilant and careful. There are houses overlooking the area, but not in close proximity to the 'nudist beach' so peak times and groups are always good.
For that picture postcard photo of Cape Town and Table Mountain, Blouberg's various beaches are the place to visit. Looking across the city from the top of Table Mountain look right and follow the silver endless beach that curves into the distance. That's Milnerton/Table View/Blouberg/Melkbosstrand and beyond. Any stop along there and you've got that sought-after photo.
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